Why Go?
Hiva Oa, the second-largest island in the Marquesas, offers an intoxicating blend of archaeological wonders, lush valleys, and pristine beaches. Paul Gauguin’s final resting place captivates with its giant stone tikis, mango-laden roads, and authentic Marquesan culture far from the typical tourist trail.
When to Go
July to September offers the driest weather, though you can visit year-round. The mangoes are most abundant from November to March.
Day 1: Atuona & First Impressions
Start your journey in Atuona, the island’s main village. After settling in, head to Relais Moehau for lunch – their fresh fish dishes are legendary. Spend the afternoon diving, though be prepared for limited visibility compared to other French Polynesian sites. The marine life makes up for it, with numerous reef sharks and occasional manta ray sightings. End your day at Mokai O Mango, where local specialties come with a side of warm Marquesan hospitality.
Day 2: Puamau’s Ancient Giants
Hire a 4×4 for the spectacular drive to Puamau (2hrs). The road winds through valleys where wild mango trees drop their fruit right onto the road – look out for the distinctive ‘mango prune’ variety, known for its sweet, complex flavor. The journey’s reward is the Me’ae I’ipona archaeological site, home to the largest tiki in French Polynesia. The ‘Tiki Penseur’ (Thinking Tiki) and ‘Tiki Souriant’ (Smiling Tiki) stand as mysterious sentinels of ancient Marquesan culture. Lunch at Chez Marie Antoinette offers authentic local cuisine with mountain views. Return via the same scenic route, stopping to collect mangoes along the way.
Day 3: Tahuata Island Adventure
Take an early morning boat to Tahuata (30min), the smallest inhabited Marquesas island. The show-stopper here is Hanatekuua Beach, a pristine crescent of white sand framed by coconut palms and crystal-clear waters – a rarity in the Marquesas. Pack a picnic lunch as facilities are limited. The beach’s isolation makes it feel like your private paradise. Return to Hiva Oa by late afternoon and enjoy dinner at the charming Chez Iris, known for its mix of French and Marquesan flavors.
Day 4: Hanatekuua Beach Adventure Return to Tahuata for a different kind of adventure.
A moderately challenging 45-minute hike leads you down to Hanatekuua Beach, one of French Polynesia’s hidden gems. The trail offers spectacular coastal views but can be steep and slippery after rain. The pristine white-sand beach, framed by coconut palms and crystal-clear waters, is a rare sight in the Marquesas. Pack a picnic lunch and plenty of water as there are no facilities. Allow an hour for the uphill return hike – the afternoon heat can be intense. Back in Hiva Oa, celebrate your adventure with dinner at Relais Moehau.
Day 5: Taaoa Archaeological Treasures & Cultural Heritage
Dedicate your morning to the Upeke archaeological site near Taaoa. Less visited than Puamau but equally fascinating, the site features ancient tikis and petroglyphs scattered through a jungle setting. Your guide can explain the rich mythology behind these stone guardians. For lunch, try the local favorite Roulotte Aniheana in Ta’aoa, where the poisson cru (raw fish in coconut milk) rivals any in French Polynesia.
In the afternoon, take a reflective walk through Calvary Cemetery, where both Paul Gauguin and Jacques Brel found their final resting place. Brel’s grave, adorned with simple flowers and often personal tokens left by visitors, speaks to his lasting impact on French culture. The legendary Belgian singer and actor spent his final years on the island, arriving in his private plane Jojo (now displayed at the Brel museum) and finding peace in this remote paradise. The simplicity of his grave, marked with “Jacques Brel, 1929-1978,” reflects the quiet dignity he sought in his last years in the Marquesas.
Spend your final afternoon exploring Atuona’s Gauguin museum and the Brel museum.
WHERE TO EAT
Eating in Hiva Oa means embracing both traditional Marquesan flavors and French-influenced cuisine. Here’s our pick of the best local spots:
Relais Moehau (Atuona) $$$
This elegant restaurant at the Hanakee Pearl Lodge offers the island’s most refined dining experience. The panoramic views over Traitors Bay are matched by sophisticated dishes that blend French technique with local ingredients. The fresh tuna tartare and grilled lobster (when available) are standouts. Reservations essential.
- Best for: Special occasions, romantic dinners
- Don’t miss: Sunset cocktails on the terrace
Chez Iris (Atuona) $$
A charming family-run establishment where Iris serves home-style Marquesan cuisine with French flair. The menu changes daily based on available ingredients, but the poisson cru is consistently excellent. The warm hospitality makes you feel like you’re dining in someone’s home.
- Best for: Authentic local experience
- Don’t miss: Whatever Iris recommends that day
Mokai O Mango (Atuona) $$
Popular with locals, this casual spot serves generous portions of Marquesan comfort food. The grilled fish with mango sauce showcases the island’s abundance of fruit, while the goat curry (when available) offers a taste of traditional Marquesan protein.
- Best for: Casual lunch, local atmosphere
- Don’t miss: Fresh mango juice
Roulotte Aniheana (Ta’aoa) $
This food truck serves some of the best-value meals on the island. Their poisson cru is legendary among locals, and the grilled fish sandwiches make perfect picnic fare for beach trips.
- Best for: Quick lunch, takeaway
- Don’t miss: The daily special
Chez Marie Antoinette (Puama’u) $$
Worth the journey to Puama’u even without the nearby tikis, Marie Antoinette’s restaurant offers home-style Marquesan dishes with stunning valley views. The menu is simple but satisfying, featuring whatever’s fresh that day.
- Best for: Lunch during Puama’u excursions
- Don’t miss: Fresh-caught fish of the day
Price Guide (main course):
$ = under 1500 XPF
$$ = 1500-3000 XPF
$$$ = over 3000 XPF
Continue Your French Polynesian Journey
With over 1,500 islands scattered across French Polynesia’s five archipelagos, paradise stretches far beyond Tahiti. Dive into the magic of these incredible islands through my detailed guides:
Discover the world’s second-largest atoll in Rangiroa, where dolphins play in turquoise passes and endless lagoons await. Journey to Fakarava, a UNESCO biosphere reserve teeming with pristine coral gardens and rare marine life. Then venture to the mysterious Marquesas, where Nuku Hiva’s dramatic landscapes and ancient ruins tell tales of a rich Polynesian history.
Ready to explore? Start planning your next paradise with these in-depth guides: