FAKARAVA: A 4-DAY JOURNEY THROUGH A UNESCO BIOSPHERE RESERVE
Fakarava, the second-largest atoll in French Polynesia’s Tuamotus archipelago, earned its UNESCO Biosphere Reserve status in 2006 in recognition of its pristine ecosystem and rich marine biodiversity. Spanning 60km in length and 21km in width, this rectangular atoll has been a crucial site for Polynesian culture since the 2nd century CE, when the first settlements were established.
DAY 1: ARRIVAL AND ORIENTATION
The moment your small aircraft descends toward Fakarava’s airstrip, you’ll witness the stunning contrast between the deep blue Pacific Ocean and the turquoise lagoon waters. After settling into your accommodation near Rotoava village, you’ll meet the team at O2 Fakarava, a dive center established in 2012 that has built its reputation on maintaining the highest safety standards while providing intimate knowledge of the atoll’s marine ecosystem.
Evening orientation includes an introduction to the atoll’s unique geography and the traditional Paumotu lifestyle. The local community, numbering around 800 residents, maintains many traditional practices, including pearl farming and coprah (dried coconut) production, which have been the economic backbone of the Tuamotus for generations.
PK9 Beach
As the Lonely Planet describes it: “A bit of a local’s secret, Plage du PK9 is – which means – 9km west of Rotoava (go past the airport and follow the dirt track towards the northern pass; at the PK9 marker, take the path to the left). It’s a thin, laid-back stretch of white coral sand backed by palms and lapped by sparkling turquoise waters. It’s equally good for sunning and swimming and there’s excellent snorkelling not far offshore. ” [reference]
Restaurants
- O2 Coco (food truck / roulotte en francais) is situated next to the diving center O2. I highly recommend having lunch there as the food is fantastic and the ice cream is excellent (my favorite: coconut and passion fruit). We went there several times just to get ice cream.
- Snack Korikori is a little further (nothing is far on Fakarava), this is a great place with a fantastic view of the lagoon with great food at a very raisonnable price. Bonus, you get borrow kayaks to explore a bit more for free !
- Havaiki lodge has two great food options. For lunch, the snack of the nurse shark (le snack du requin dormeur) is a beautiful beach side lunch place, where you can eat in the water (there are tables at waist height in the water) and the resident nurse shark keeps coming back to check.
In the evening, the fancier restaurant of the resort (Le Mekobar) offers a fixed price menu that is probably the best/fanciest restaurant on the island. They use local ingredients with a twist to surprise you. The cocktails are also very creative.
DAY 2: NORTH PASS DIVING AT GARUAE
Garuae Pass, the largest reef pass in French Polynesia at 1,600 meters wide, offers what many consider the ultimate drift diving experience. Morning dives capitalize on the incoming tide, which brings crystal-clear oceanic water and abundant marine life. The pass is home to the famous “shark wall” phenomenon, a breathtaking natural spectacle where hundreds of grey reef sharks gather in dense formations along the channel walls. During peak conditions, divers may encounter more than 200 sharks simultaneously, creating one of the most impressive shark diving experiences in the world.
Your two dives with O2 will explore different sections of this remarkable ecosystem. The first dive typically focuses on the outer reef wall, where you’ll witness the formation of the shark wall, along with encounters with Napoleon wrasses, giant trevallies, and spotted eagle rays. The second dive explores the coral gardens, where over 40 species of hard coral create an underwater maze teeming with life.
DAY 3: SOUTH PASS ADVENTURE
The day begins with an early morning boat journey to Tetamanu, site of the historic South Pass (Tumakohua). This area holds significant cultural importance as the location of Fakarava’s first village and Catholic church, built in 1874. While more intimate than its northern counterpart, the south pass offers exceptional diving opportunities with its high concentration of marine life and pristine coral formations.
O2’s experienced guides will lead you through two dives in this biodiverse channel. The pass is home to several distinct ecosystems within a small area, from the outer reef drop-off to the inner lagoon coral gardens. Marine biologists have documented over 750 fish species in this area alone, making it one of the most species-rich environments in French Polynesia.
DAY 4: THE BLUE LAGOON EXPEDITION AND DEPARTURE
For your final day, before departure, the journey to Teahata, known as the Blue Lagoon, takes you through a part of Fakarava’s 1,121-square-kilometer lagoon. This natural pool within the lagoon was formed by centuries of coral growth and water movement patterns, creating a stunning gradient of blue hues that seem almost artificial in their perfection.
The morning excursion includes exploration of several motus (small islands) that demonstrate the classic stages of atoll formation. These coral-based islands, some only a few hundred years old, showcase the ongoing geological processes that have shaped the Tuamotus over millions of years. Enjoy a picnic lunch featuring local specialties, often including fresh fish prepared in traditional Polynesian style with coconut milk and lime, before your afternoon departure flight.
PRACTICAL CONSIDERATIONS
The timing of your dives will be coordinated with tidal movements, as these determine both safety conditions and marine life activity. O2 Fakarava maintains detailed records of tidal patterns and coordinates with local weather services to ensure optimal diving conditions. This itinerary has been specifically arranged to allow for proper off-gassing time before your departure flight, adhering to safe diving practices.
Would you like more specific information about marine life identification, tide patterns, or cultural aspects of any of these locations? I can also provide additional details about photography opportunities or technical diving considerations.
Continue Your French Polynesian Journey
With over 1,500 islands scattered across French Polynesia’s five archipelagos, paradise stretches far beyond Tahiti. Dive into the magic of these incredible islands through my detailed guides:
Discover the world’s second-largest atoll in Rangiroa, where dolphins play in turquoise passes and endless lagoons await. Then venture to the mysterious Marquesas, where Nuku Hiva’s dramatic landscapes and ancient ruins tell tales of a rich Polynesian history. Finally, follow in the footsteps of Paul Gauguin on Hiva Oa, where towering peaks meet black sand beaches.
Ready to explore? Start planning your next paradise with these in-depth guides: