As I look through my photographs of Nuku Hiva, each image brings back memories of this raw, untamed paradise – the largest island in the Marquesas archipelago. Unlike the well-known postcards of Tahiti, this remote corner of French Polynesia offers something entirely different.
Day 1: Discovering Taiohae Bay
Begin your Marquesan adventure in Taiohae, the main village of Nuku Hiva nestled in a spectacular amphitheater-like bay. After checking into your accommodation, take time to acclimate to the island’s relaxed rhythm. Spend your afternoon wandering through the heart of this small yet vibrant community. Visit the Notre Dame Cathedral, notable for its unique blend of traditional Marquesan wood carvings and Catholic architecture. The local craft market offers your first glimpse into Marquesan artistry, where you can find traditional carvings, tapa cloth, and intricate jewelry.
As evening approaches, make your way to one of the local restaurants along the bay. Try the local specialty of raw fish marinated in coconut milk, known as poisson cru, while watching fishing boats return to the harbor against the backdrop of dramatic volcanic cliffs.
Day 2: The Underwater World
Rise before dawn for an unforgettable diving experience with the majestic scalloped hammerhead sharks. The early morning offers the best visibility as these elegant creatures gather in the deep blue waters off Nuku Hiva’s coast. Your first dive will focus on the hammerhead shark experience, while the second dive often explores different sites rich with marine life, including manta rays, grey sharks, and tropical fish.
Take the afternoon to rest and recover from your diving adventures. The decompression time is perfect for lounging at your accommodation or taking a gentle stroll along Taiohae’s waterfront, where you can watch local life unfold at its own peaceful pace.
Day 3: Cultural Heritage in Hatiheu
The journey to Hatiheu village is an adventure in itself. The hour-long 4×4 drive takes you along a stunning mountain road with breathtaking views of the coastline and valleys below. Upon reaching Hatiheu, you’ll understand why this village is considered one of the most beautiful in French Polynesia, with its dramatic basalt pinnacles standing sentinel over the village.
Your exploration of the Kamuihei archaeological site reveals ancient stone tikis, ceremonial platforms (me’ae), and mysterious petroglyphs etched in stone. The nearby Hikokua and Tahakia sites offer additional insights into ancient Marquesan civilization. Break for lunch in the village, where local families serve traditional Marquesan dishes, often including fresh caught fish, breadfruit, and local root vegetables.
The afternoon brings you to Hatiheu’s striking black sand beach, where the contrast between the dark sand, blue ocean, and towering cliffs creates an unforgettable panorama. As you return to Taiohae, you’ll have a deeper appreciation for both the ancient and living culture of the Marquesas.
Day 4: The Majestic Hakaui Valley
Your final day presents the crown jewel of Nuku Hiva experiences – the trek to Vaipo Waterfall with Cannibal Arts guides (cannibal-arts.com). Setting out early from Taiohae, you’ll embark on a journey through one of the most spectacular valleys in the Pacific. The Hakaui Valley feels like stepping into a lost world, where vertical cliffs rise thousands of feet into the mist and ancient stone structures peek through the dense vegetation.
Your guides will share stories of the valley’s history as you trek through groves of chestnut and mango trees, past ancient stone platforms, and alongside crystal-clear streams. The 12 residents who still call this valley home maintain their traditional way of life, offering a glimpse into authentic Marquesan culture.
The trail culminates at the magnificent Vaipo Waterfall, the highest in French Polynesia. Weather permitting, you can swim in the natural pools at the base of the falls, surrounded by walls of black rock draped with ferns and vines. It’s a fitting finale to your Nuku Hiva adventure, showcasing the raw natural beauty that makes this island so special.
Return to Taiohae for a farewell dinner featuring traditional Marquesan dance performances, a powerful reminder of the living culture that makes these islands so much more than just a beautiful landscape.
Important Planning Notes:
While this itinerary offers an ideal exploration of Nuku Hiva, remember that weather conditions can affect both diving visibility and valley access. Book your diving excursions and Cannibal Arts tour well in advance, as spaces can be limited. For the Hatiheu excursion, either rent a 4×4 or arrange transportation through your accommodation. Most importantly, bring sturdy hiking shoes for the valley trek and remember that your guides will handle all necessary permissions for visiting sacred sites.
Wild Beauty: My Journey Through Nuku Hiva
What struck me most was the strong cultural identity of the Marquesians, distinctly different from their Tahitian cousins. They maintain their own language and cultural practices, with traditional tattoo art being particularly prevalent. I learned that we owe much of our knowledge of these traditional tattoo designs to Karl von den Steinen, who meticulously documented the intricate patterns unique to Nuku Hiva in the late 19th century. Today, I saw these same designs proudly worn by locals, keeping their ancestral traditions alive.
The island’s central road, which I captured from above, is an engineering marvel. It snakes through the landscape with dramatic switchbacks, connecting the airport to the rest of this wild territory. The aerial shot really shows how the road seems to carve through the yellow-green vegetation coating the mountainsides.
My trek through the Hakaui Valley was unforgettable. With only twelve residents maintaining their traditional lifestyle there, it felt like stepping into another world – one that reminded me of the landscape from Avatar. My photos capture the valley’s towering basalt cliffs draped in emerald vegetation, but they barely do justice to the magnificent Vaipo waterfall, which thunders down through the misty air surrounded by near-vertical rock walls.
During my dives, I was fortunate enough to encounter schools of scalloped hammerhead sharks. Watching these majestic creatures glide through the deep blue waters, their distinctive hammer-shaped heads cutting through the current, was breathtaking.
The island’s abundance amazed me. I found myself constantly stumbling upon wild mango trees, their fruits scattered across the ground. The fertile volcanic soil seems to support endless varieties of tropical fruits, turning the entire island into a natural orchard. One of my favorite shots shows the coastline framed by what looks like an acacia tree, capturing how the lush vegetation meets the Pacific’s deep blue waters.
Standing in the same spots where Herman Melville was so captivated that he jumped ship in 1842, I could understand why. My photograph of that perfect crescent bay embraced by volcanic peaks really encapsulates what makes Nuku Hiva special – it’s a place where mountain meets sea, where wilderness still reigns, and where the landscape remains largely unchanged by time.
While French Polynesia might be famous for its lagoons and overwater bungalows, I discovered that its true treasures lie here in these remote, rugged corners of the Pacific, where ancient traditions and natural wonders continue to thrive in perfect harmony.
Restaurants and Food
We visited in November, which is mango season. The island, we were told, has over 100 different types of mangoes. In fact, there are so many mangoes that you can find them on the side of the road. The best way to get fruits is at the market, which is open every day except Sunday, with Wednesday being the busiest day. There you can find all kinds of fruits, vegetables, honey (honey from the Marquesas Islands is very good), and some vanilla.
Here are the restaurants we tried:
- Chez Yvonne (Hatiheu): During our drive to Hatiheu, Chez Yvonne was recommended by multiple people. It’s an institution here, and the goat in coconut sauce is a must-try experience.
- Le Snack du Marché (Taiohae): While at the market, you can have lunch at the “Snack du Marché” where the octopus (poulpe) dish is very popular among locals.
- Le Nuku Hiva (Pearl Resort): This is the fancy hotel on the island. The bar is great, with excellent cocktails and happy hours on Mondays and Wednesdays.
- Quai des Pêcheurs (Taiohae): If you want amazing fresh fish, you’ll need to wake up early and get to the harbor before 5 AM. That’s when fishermen return and will sell you the freshest fish you’ve ever had.
Continue Your French Polynesian Journey
With over 1,500 islands scattered across French Polynesia’s five archipelagos, paradise stretches far beyond Tahiti. Dive into the magic of these incredible islands through my detailed guides:
Discover the world’s second-largest atoll in Rangiroa, where dolphins play in turquoise passes and endless lagoons await. Journey to Fakarava, a UNESCO biosphere reserve teeming with pristine coral gardens and rare marine life. Then venture to the mysterious Marquesas, follow in the footsteps of Paul Gauguin on Hiva Oa, where towering peaks meet black sand beaches.
Ready to explore? Start planning your next paradise with these in-depth guides:
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