We had the opportunity to go to Havana, Cuba for a week. Being French-American, we are subject to the embargo imposed by the US on Cuba. Which means that we cannot engage in any commercial relationships with Cuban nationals. However some companies have been licensed by the U.S. Department of the Treasury to provide people-to-people Cuba travel for U.S. citizens. People-to-People travel is an initiative allowing U.S. citizens and permanent residents to travel to Cuba on a limited basis to participate in cultural experiences and have direct contact with the Cuban people to learn more about them and their culture, while they learn about the American way of life. It’s not tourism, it is more rewarding as it is a real cultural exchange. In our case, we were interacting with La Fototeca de Cuba and renowned photographers. With them, we spent 7 days strolling in Old Havana, visiting homes, talking to local people. We got in a boxing club and and visited a dance academy. We also did enjoyed a trip outside of Havana, visiting Las Terrazas, designated a Biosphere Reserve by UNESCO in 1984 and were also welcomed in some homes along the way.
Cuba flag
The Malecón
The Malecón is a 8km/5miles boulevard along the seawall, it’s the place that has the potential to become the next Promenade des Anglais in Nice, or La croisette in Cannes. It’s a prime location and the Cubans are renovating it quickly (you can see cranes on the pictures). For now, it’s a mix of old decrepit buildings and brand new ones. No matter what the buildings look like, it’s where the Cubans go to have a stroll, swim in the ocean, fish, eat ice cream or bring a date.
Guarding the entrance of the harbor in Havana is Castillo de los tres Reyes del Morro.
Panorama of Avenue Maceo better know as Malecon.
The Malecon is the place to find your love.
In absence of activity go fishing.
Havana
Our home for the week was the Hotel Parque Central, which is located on the square called Parque Central (Central Park). It’s right next to the Capitolio and at the entrance of Old Havana. It’s a very high-end hotel (at least for me) and very comfortable. The added benefit is that the hotel spans two buildings: the colonial and the modern Parque Central. Each hotel has its own rooftop swimming pool which are both great places to take pictures of the city at sunrise or sunset.
Capitolio building and the gran teatro in Havana, Cuba.
Hotel Parque Central with some classic american car in Havana.
Old Havana (or La Habana Vieja) is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and it’s really fun to walk there at anytime of the day or night. The city itself is a mix of old buildings, old buildings being renovated (thanks to the money coming from tourism), almost failing down buildings (including rusted scaffoldings) and brand new buildings (those are mainly new hotels). Each rooftop is used as a terrace, for drying laundry and for storing water (those blue bins).
The buildings in Havana are in need of repair (yes almost all of them),
Havana and Cuba in general are subject to hurricanes. In 2008, Hurricane Ike destroyed many structures in Old Havana and forced many of Old Havana’s residents to flee for safety. Age, decay, and neglect combined with natural factors in a complex set of threats to the long-term preservation of this historic old town[wikipedia link]. While we were there, we could not help noticing that a lot of restoration was going on (the Capitolio, Plaza Vieja) and some were recently finished (Plaza de Armas).
Capitolio and the street of Havana.
For example, the market (cuatro camino) was on the ground floor of an old building but I wandered to the second floor and here is what it looked like:
The top floor of the cuatro camino market.
Nothing in Cuba is discarded, for example, we saw Peugeot 205, 504, 404, and many american cars from the 50s. Cubans called them hybrid because they have the old body but everything inside has been changed many times. For example, some of them are running chinese diesel engine.
A perfectly maintained Volkswagen Beetle.
Mexican sailboat at sunrise in the harbor of Havana.
Flags in front of casa de las americas
Outside of Havana
We also went into the country side of Cuba to meet farmers and other cubans in a different setting. My self-imposed photographic challenge in Cuba was to photograph people with a wide angle lens. No telephoto here, I had to talk to the folks (with the help of the Cuban photographer that spoke perfect english). When I was alone, a simple eye contact and a smile was enough. I was amazed how friendly everyone is in Cuba, I have rarely met someone who did not want me to take a picture (I actually don’t recall any case but I’m staying on the safe side).
A farm nearby Havana
Where is the cat?
Cuban farmer makes charcoal for Havana.
Dance and boxing
Dancing and boxing are clearly national sports in Cuba (so is baseball). We went to see one boxing club where kids go and compete. The kids are between 6- and 10-year old and for them it’s serious business. They are fast, motivated and determined to win.
Boxing is a national sport in Cuba. They start young.
Then we went to see a local pro dance academy and that was such a visual treat. It was my first time photographing dancers and they are so so beautiful. I have probably taken more pictures in our 3 hours at Prodanza than any other places in Cuba.
Dancers at Prodanza dance academy in Cuba
Dancer training at Prodanza in Cuba.
Details of the dancer feet
Drinks and other treats
We cannot talk about Cuba and not mention rum, cigars or coffee. I have completely missed all my opportunities to take the pictures with cigars I had set myself to take (so I have to go back to fix that). We found great coffee in many places but the one that will stay with me for a long time is this one:
A capuccino with the Che.
How frequently do you have the Che on your cappuccino?! There are mojitos and other rum-based cocktails at every bar and each bar has its own recipe. Beers were not bad either but there is no dark beer (or at least I could not find one).
Most popular beer in Cuba.
Havana Club is the national rum in Cuba. It used to be Bacardi.
No it’s not a yogurt, it’s a shot of rum.
It’s already over, can not wait to go back.
If you have a moment, take a look at the fantastic work done by one of the Cuban photographers that have helped us:
Eduardo Garcia: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QXB8WUuEmdw. Frankly, the 4 local photographers that accompanied us were amazing and they do their work with not much gear. It’s not like they can order their camera, lenses or compact flash cards on Amazon or go to the photo store around the corner, because there is no photo store around the corner or the next or the next. Same for computers, no Apple Store in Havana… Nevertheless, they have amazing stories to tell with their pictures and they are very talented.
I was glad that we went to Cuba under this cultural exchange program because I think I really got to see Cuba from the eyes of Cubans (vs the eyes of the tourists we are). I got amazing stories to share, and memories that will make me want to go back really fast.
All the images presented here are available for licensing or as fine art prints.